RY10 Asphalt Crack Fill Machine

White lithium grease.

It's good to clean it out completely after 5 uses; otherwise there is a possibility of charring rubber in areas where there may be multiple layers of rubber built up.

To clean it, heat it up and scrape it out with a scraper on a broom handle. Then start fresh with a brand new box of crackfill.  

Absolutely! You just have to heat it up again when you are ready to use it.

As soon as the crackfiller comes down to ambient temperature - sometimes as soon as 30-45 minutes when it is hot, and more quickly in cooler temperatures. Test with a stick: if you push down on the crackfiller and the crackfill doesn't tack to the stick, you're good to drive on it.

This unit comes with an external torch as its burner system. The RY10's big brother, the RY10 Pro, has an enclosed halo base burner.

It takes approximately 30 minutes to get a full pot on start-up.  If this is your full-time business, we'd recommend upgrading to the RY10 Pro which cuts melting time in half with its halo-shaped burner.  For occasional repairs, the RY10's melting time is probably not an issue.

Yes, you can put the whole block into the melter kettle along with the plastic cling film. Don't worry because including and melting the plastic film is 100% safe. Plus, it will not affect the adhesion or the performance of the rubberized crack filler.

Use the RY10's torch to soften the crack fill on the shoe and wheels. You can then use a scraper (you can use a flathead screwdriver for this) to remove the softened rubber.

To make it a little easier to control the flow of the crackfill:

• Lower the temperature of the kettle and it will cause the rubber to flow more slowly.
• Lengthen the control arm for the valve by adjusting the turnbuckle. That way, you will be able to have the handle closer to the handlebars, and your hand will be more closed, which should provide more control for the valve operation.